Sunrise over a sea of clouds from the summit of Pico do Arieiro in Madeira, with sharp rock ridges

Madeira: from the coast to above the clouds

· Travel · 3 min read

Přečíst česky

At four in the morning I stood in the car park on Pico do Arieiro, shivering. Darkness all around, wind, and nothing below us. Then dawn began to break, and I saw that I was standing above a sea of clouds with sharp black ridges rising out of it. An hour later the sun rose and everything glowed orange. This is Madeira from the coast to above the clouds: an island where in an hour you climb from the beach to 1,800 metres.

1234567Porto MonizSeixalPico RuivoPico do ArieiroPonta de São LourençoCabo GirãoFunchalFrom the coast to above the clouds32°46′ s. š.S10 km
Mapa: From the coast to above the clouds
  1. Porto Moniz – lava pools 32.867° N, 17.167° W
  2. Seixal – black beach 32.823° N, 17.107° W
  3. Pico Ruivo – highest peak, 1,862 m 32.759° N, 16.942° W
  4. Pico do Arieiro – sunrise above the clouds 32.736° N, 16.929° W
  5. Ponta de São Lourenço – peninsula of cliffs 32.745° N, 16.705° W
  6. Cabo Girão – glass skywalk 32.656° N, 17.005° W
  7. Funchal – the capital 32.667° N, 16.924° W

Pico do Arieiro: sunrise above the clouds

Madeira's third-highest mountain (1,818 m), with a road almost to the summit. That's why it's the island's most popular sunrise spot. The clouds often stay below the summit and form a sea from which the ridges rise. In summer, small songbirds at the car park by the summit land on people's hands.

A hand in a yellow sleeve with crumbs and two little birds flying to it above the mountains
Morning visitors on Pico do Arieiro
Mountains rising out of the clouds, seen from a drone

PR1: from Arieiro to Pico Ruivo

One of the most beautiful treks in Europe. The path follows the ridge from Pico do Arieiro to Madeira's highest peak, Pico Ruivo (1,862 m): through tunnels carved in the rock, up steps above abysses and past rock formations. About 7 km one way, 3–4 hours. Sections of the route are often closed because of landslides and fires, so check the status in advance.

A sharp green ridge with a rainbow over the valley

Ponta de São Lourenço

A completely different Madeira: a parched peninsula in the east of the island with red, yellow and black cliffs dropping into the ocean. The PR8 trail follows the ridge to the end of the peninsula (about 8 km there and back). At sunset the cliffs glow, and in the distance you can see the island of Porto Santo.

  • Madeira: from the coast to above the clouds, photograph 4 of 10
  • Madeira: from the coast to above the clouds, photograph 5 of 10
  • Madeira: from the coast to above the clouds, photograph 6 of 10

The north coast: Seixal and Porto Moniz

The north coast is wild and green. Seixal has a black beach below green cliffs and waterfalls. Porto Moniz is known for its natural lava pools, where you can swim in ocean water. By the village of Ribeira da Janela, rock stacks stand in the waves: with a long exposure they look otherworldly.

  • Madeira: from the coast to above the clouds, photograph 7 of 10
  • Madeira: from the coast to above the clouds, photograph 8 of 10
  • Madeira: from the coast to above the clouds, photograph 9 of 10

Cabo Girão

One of the highest cliffs in Europe (580 m), with a glass viewing platform. Below you are terraced fields and the ocean. Nearby is the fishing village of Câmara de Lobos, which Winston Churchill painted.

A small town on a cliff above the ocean, seen from a drone

Photography on Madeira

  • Drone: Madeira is stunning from above, but restrictions apply near Funchal airport and in nature reserves. Check the maps.
  • Long exposures on the coast: waves around rock stacks and lava formations.
  • A telephoto lens for layers of ridges above the clouds.
  • Weather: it rains in the north while the sun shines in the south. When one side is grim, drive to the other.

The island's quieter face, the misty Fanal forest and the levadas, you'll find in Madeira: time to switch off.

Faq

When does the sun rise on Pico do Arieiro?

Depending on the season, between 6.30 and 8.00. Arrive at least 45 minutes early for parking and the blue hour.

Is the PR1 trek to Pico Ruivo hard?

Moderately: lots of steps and exposure to heights. You need good boots, a headtorch for the tunnels and some fitness.

What is the best beach on Madeira?

Madeira isn't a beach island. The nicest is the black beach at Seixal, swimming in the lava pools at Porto Moniz, or the golden beach on the neighbouring island of Porto Santo.

Read next

All articles