Autumn in the Dolomites: golden larches and empty trails

If I could only go to the Dolomites once a year, I'd go in October. The larches turn gold and orange, the summer crowds disappear, the air is crystal clear and the first snow dusts the peaks. Autumn in the Dolomites is the most beautiful time for a photographer. Here's when to go, where, and what to watch out for.

When the larches turn yellow

The larches in the Dolomites turn yellow from roughly the start to the end of October, with the peak usually around the middle of the month. It depends on altitude and weather: higher places colour earlier. One frosty week or a storm can end the colour within days, so watch current photos on social media.

The best places in autumn

Lago Federa

A small lake below the towers of Croda da Lago, surrounded by larch forest. In autumn one of the most beautiful places in the Dolomites. The walk up from Passo Giau or from Cortina takes 2–3 hours. By the lake stands the Rifugio Croda da Lago hut, where you can stay overnight and photograph the lake at dawn, though in autumn it may be closed, so check.

Passo Giau

A pass with a view of Ra Gusela and the distant Marmolada. It's busy at sunset, but the view is worth it. Up top are green-brown meadows, and below, golden larches.

Alpe di Siusi (Seiser Alm)

The largest alpine meadow in Europe, with wooden hay barns and the Langkofel behind. In autumn the grass is golden and the larches around the plateau blaze with colour. In the morning there's often an inversion with mist in the valley.

Val di Funes

A valley with the little church of Santa Maddalena and the rock wall of the Geisler group behind it. An iconic view everyone knows. In autumn, with coloured trees, it's even more magical.

Autumn weather

October in the Dolomites is usually settled: clear, cold days and frosty nights. But snow can come too. Bring warm clothes, a headtorch (the days are short) and chains if you're driving over high passes.

Photography tips

• Backlight: the larches glow most with a low sun behind them.
• A telephoto lens for layers of mountains and coloured forests in the valley.
• Inversions and mist in the valleys in the morning, especially around Alpe di Siusi.
• Reflections in lakes on a calm morning.

More articles about the Dolomites: Easter in the Dolomites, the Dolomites again and again and sleeping under the stars at Tre Cime. Photos are in my Dolomites portfolio.

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