The Dolomites again and again: my favourite places and hikes
Some places you visit once and tick off. Others you keep returning to. For me the Dolomites are one of those. I've been here in summer, autumn, spring and winter, alone and with friends, and every time I discover something new. In this article I share the places and hikes I like to come back to most.
- Seceda – the Odle ridges 46.597° N, 11.724° E
- Val di Funes – Santa Maddalena 46.644° N, 11.726° E
- Passo Gardena – pass and ski touring 46.550° N, 11.806° E
- Cinque Torri – five towers 46.517° N, 12.049° E
- Lago di Sorapis – turquoise lake 46.519° N, 12.207° E
- Cadini di Misurina – sharp peaks 46.596° N, 12.268° E
- Tre Cime – three peaks 46.619° N, 12.302° E
Cinque Torri
Five rock towers above Cortina, where battles were fought in the First World War. A loop around the towers passes restored trenches and bunkers: an open-air museum of the war in the mountains. You can climb the towers or just walk around them. At sunset it's one of the most beautiful places around Cortina.
Lago di Sorapis
A lake of milky turquoise water below the Sorapis rock face. The path from Passo Tre Croci takes about 2 hours one way and has a few exposed sections secured with cables. In summer the path is crowded: set off early in the morning.
Seceda
The ridges of the Odle/Geisler group, which drop sheer on one side and slope gently into green meadows on the other. A cable car from Ortisei takes you up, and then you can walk along the ridge or down through the meadows. The iconic view of the ridges' "waves" is best in the afternoon and at sunset.
Val di Funes
A quiet valley with the little church of Santa Maddalena and the chapel of San Giovanni in Ranui. Behind them rise the Odle peaks. A classic everyone knows from photos, but worth seeing with your own eyes. There's a small fee to walk onto the land by the San Giovanni chapel.
Cadini di Misurina
The sharp peaks of the Cadini group, which from the viewpoint above Rifugio Fonda Savio look like a dragon's teeth. The path leads from the car park at Rifugio Auronzo, and the last section is steep and exposed. One of the most dramatic views in the Dolomites.
When to go
- June: green meadows, flowers, snow on the peaks, fewer people. Some huts only open in mid-June.
- July and August: everything is open, but it's busiest.
- September: stable weather and fewer people: my favourite.
- October: autumn in the Dolomites with golden larches.
- Winter and spring: skiing and ski touring, more in Easter in the Dolomites.
Staying in mountain huts
The best experience is spending the night in a mountain hut (rifugio). Dinner, a view of the valley, and in the morning you're in place for sunrise before anyone else. In season the huts need booking well in advance. I write about a night at Tre Cime in sleeping under the stars at Tre Cime.
You'll find all my photos of the Dolomites in my portfolio.
Faq
When is the best time for the Dolomites?
For hiking, from mid-June to the end of September; for autumn colours, October; for skiing and ski touring, December to April.
Where should I stay in the Dolomites?
For hiking, Cortina d'Ampezzo, Val Gardena (Ortisei, Selva) or Alta Badia are ideal. The strongest experience, though, is a night in a mountain hut.
Do I need a car in the Dolomites?
It's the most convenient, but in summer buses also run between the valleys and passes. In many places car access is restricted.
