Time to move to the South Island
After half a year on the North Island came the day I'd been looking forward to from the start. I packed the car, said goodbye to my friends from the kiwifruit orchard and set off for Wellington and the ferry. Ahead of me was the South Island: glaciers, fjords, the highest mountains and the darkest sky. Time to move to the South Island.
The ferry from Wellington to Picton
Two ferries link the islands: the Interislander and Bluebridge. The crossing takes about three and a half hours and runs across Cook Strait and through the long inlets of the Marlborough Sounds. The car travels on board: in the season, book well ahead.
The second half of the crossing, through Queen Charlotte Sound, is an experience in itself. Green hills drop into calm water, and dolphins sometimes swim alongside. I spent all of it on deck with my camera.
- Wellington – the ferry leaves 41.286° S, 174.776° E
- Picton – the South Island port 41.290° S, 174.000° E
- Nelson – the sunniest town 41.271° S, 173.284° E
- Abel Tasman – golden beaches and turquoise bays 40.900° S, 173.000° E
- Wharariki – a beach with rock islands 40.500° S, 172.683° E
- Punakaiki – Pancake Rocks 42.108° S, 171.333° E
- Hokitika Gorge – a turquoise river 42.955° S, 171.000° E
Abel Tasman: golden beaches
Abel Tasman is New Zealand's smallest national park, but one of the most beautiful. Golden sand, granite boulders, turquoise water and the Abel Tasman Coast Track (a Great Walk, 60 km). It's best to combine walking with a kayak or a water taxi.
Golden Bay and Wharariki
Beyond the Takaka hills lies Golden Bay and, at the very end, Wharariki beach with its rock islands. One of the most photogenic beaches in New Zealand; more in New Zealand through a photographer's eyes.
The West Coast
The road along the West Coast is one of the most beautiful in the world. Wild beaches, rainforest and glaciers.
- Punakaiki: the layered Pancake Rocks and the sea blowholes.
- Hokitika Gorge: a river so turquoise it looks edited. The colour is richest on a sunny day.
- Franz Josef and Fox: glaciers flowing down into the rainforest.
The South Island is different
The South Island is wilder, emptier of people and more dramatic. The roads are longer, the villages smaller, petrol stations rarer. And it's colder: living in a car in winter was a real challenge down south (more in living in a car). But every morning with a view of snowy mountains makes up for it.
Faq
How do I get from New Zealand's North Island to the South Island?
By the Interislander or Bluebridge ferry from Wellington to Picton (about 3.5 hours), or by plane.
Do I need to book the ferry in advance?
With a car in the season (December–February), definitely. Out of season, a few days ahead is enough.
How much time do I need for the South Island?
At least three weeks, ideally a month or more. The distances are long and there are many places.
