Seal colonies in New Zealand
I was lying on my stomach on the stones, my camera with a telephoto lens resting on my backpack, watching a seal pup trying to climb a rock. Twice it slid back into the water; on the third go it made it and sprawled proudly in the sun. Next to it its mother slept so deeply she didn't seem to breathe. Seal colonies are one of the most magical places in New Zealand for me.
Meet the New Zealand fur seal
The New Zealand fur seal (Arctocephalus forsteri, kekeno in Māori) lives on the rocky coasts of New Zealand and southern Australia. Unlike true seals it has visible ear flaps and can walk on land on its front flippers, faster than you'd expect. In the 19th century it was nearly wiped out by fur hunters; today it's protected and its numbers are growing.
- Red Rocks, Wellington – in winter 41.348° S, 174.723° E
- Cape Palliser – the North Island's biggest colony 41.612° S, 175.290° E
- Ohau Point – pups by a waterfall 42.246° S, 173.836° E
- Kaikōura – peninsula with a colony 42.400° S, 173.680° E
Cape Palliser
The biggest fur seal colony on the North Island. It's right by the road below the lighthouse, so you can watch them from very close. They're well camouflaged among the stones: watch your step. More about the cape in Cape Reinga vs. Cape Palliser.
Red Rocks near Wellington
On Wellington's south coast a track leads to the red rocks. From May to October young males come here to rest on the stones. It's about an hour's walk along the coast. More in Wellington.
Kaikōura and Ohau Point
On the South Island, Kaikōura is the capital of marine mammals: besides fur seals, dolphins and sperm whales live here. The seal colony is at the end of the peninsula. A little to the north lies Ohau Point, where in winter the pups climb up a stream to a pool below a waterfall and play there. The track to the waterfall was closed for a long time after the 2016 earthquake, so check its current status.
When to come
You can see fur seals in New Zealand all year. The pups are born in November and December and are cutest from spring to winter, when they play in the rock pools along the coast.
How to behave around seals
How to photograph seals
- A telephoto lens of 100–400 mm, so you don't need to get close.
- Shoot at eye level: lie down on the stones.
- Focus on the eye and use an aperture around f/5.6–f/8, so the whole head is sharp.
- Capture interactions: pups with their mother, males fighting, jumps into the water.
- Sea spray: salt ruins gear, so wipe your lens.
I've had similar encounters with marine mammals in Iceland, on Ytri Tunga beach with its seals, and in Norway on a whale watching trip.
Faq
Where can you see fur seals in New Zealand?
On the North Island at Cape Palliser and, in winter, at Red Rocks in Wellington; on the South Island at Kaikōura, Ohau Point and many places along the Otago and Southland coasts.
Are fur seals dangerous?
Not if you keep your distance. But if they feel threatened they can bite. Never get between a seal and the sea.
What's the difference between a fur seal and a true seal?
A fur seal has external ear flaps and can walk on land on all four flippers. A true seal has no ear flaps and shuffles along on its belly.
