The midnight sun in Tromsø: the summer when night never comes
It's half past midnight, I'm sitting on a ridge above a fjord and the sun is shining in my face. Below us, islands bathed in golden light and a flock of gulls circling over the sea. No darkness, no stars, just an endless day. The midnight sun is the Arctic's other face, and for many people just as magical as the aurora.
When the midnight sun shines in Tromsø
The midnight sun shines in Tromsø roughly from 20 May to 22 July. At that time the sun doesn't set even at midnight; it just sinks low over the northern horizon and then climbs again. For several weeks before and after, the night is only a bright twilight: darkness returns to Tromsø only at the end of August.
Where to see the midnight sun
At midnight the sun is in the north, so you need a clear view of the northern horizon. Mountains and islands love to hide it.
- Fjellheisen – the cable car above Tromsø, open late into the night 69.638° N, 18.988° E
- Tromvik – open sea to the north 69.770° N, 18.340° E
- Sommarøy – beaches and islets 69.634° N, 18.012° E
- Grøtfjord – a beach facing north 69.768° N, 18.528° E
- Lyngen – hikes above the fjord 69.580° N, 20.200° E
- Fjellheisen: in summer the cable car above Tromsø runs until late at night, and there's a café with a terrace at the top.
- The north coast of Kvaløya: Tromvik and Grøtfjord look out over the open sea.
- Sommarøy: white beaches where you can sit by the sea at midnight.
- The mountains: the strongest experience is a hike. Climbing Tromsdalstinden, Rødtinden or Store Blåmann under the night sun is something you'll remember forever.
Summer in Tromsø
Summer in Tromsø is short and intense. Temperatures are mostly 12–20 °C, but the weather changes all the time. There can be snow in the mountains even in July. Locals spend their free time outdoors: barbecuing on the beaches, swimming in the icy sea, kayaking and hiking even at two in the morning. The town holds festivals and the world's northernmost marathon, the Midnight Sun Marathon.
Summer is also ideal for a road trip to Senja, when the ferries run and the hike up Segla is free of snow.
How to sleep when it's always light
For many people it's surprisingly hard. The body can't tell when it's evening. What helps:
- An eye mask and blackout curtains (most accommodation has them).
- A regular routine: even if it's light outside, go to bed at your usual time.
- At least one sleepless night! If you're going to, do it on a mountain under the midnight sun.
The aurora in summer?
No. The aurora is active in summer too, but it can't be seen in a bright sky. The aurora season in Tromsø only starts in late August and September. If you come at the turn of August and September, with a little luck you can have both: light evenings and the first aurora. More in northern lights hunting in Tromsø.
Faq
When is the midnight sun in Tromsø?
The sun doesn't set from roughly 20 May to 22 July. The light nights last from mid-May to early August.
Where is the best view of the midnight sun?
Anywhere with a clear view north: at the Fjellheisen cable car, on the north coast of Kvaløya or on Sommarøy.
Can you see the aurora in Tromsø in summer?
No, it's too light. The aurora season starts at the end of August.
