Reindeer feeding and Sámi culture near Tromsø

When a reindeer first pushes its nose into the bucket of lichen you're holding, it's a strange feeling. They're shy and curious at the same time; they snort and jostle, and in a few seconds the bucket is empty. Reindeer feeding is one of the most popular experiences around Tromsø, and also a chance to get to know the culture of the Sámi, the indigenous people of northern Scandinavia.

Who the Sámi are

The Sámi live in the north of Norway, Sweden, Finland and on the Kola Peninsula in Russia. They call the region Sápmi. Traditionally they lived from fishing, hunting and above all reindeer herding, which some Sámi families still do today. They have their own languages, flag, parliament and a national day on 6 February.

For me the strongest part of a visit to the herders isn't the feeding itself but the stories. About how the herds migrate every spring from the interior to the coast and back again in autumn, how reindeer are marked, or what a joik sounds like: traditional Sámi singing that "doesn't sing about someone, but sings that person".

How reindeer feeding works

Most Sámi camps are in valleys a short way from Tromsø. When you arrive you get a bucket of feed and enter an enclosure where dozens to hundreds of reindeer roam freely. In some places you can ride a sled pulled by a reindeer. Then you go into a lavvu, a traditional tent similar to a tipi, where a fire burns in the middle, bidos (reindeer stew) or coffee is served, and stories are told.

Reindeer through the year

In winter the Sámi herds stay inland around Kautokeino and Karasjok, where there's less snow and the reindeer can dig out lichen more easily. In spring they migrate to the coast and islands, and in summer you can meet them by the roads around Tromsø, on Kvaløya and on Senja. Be careful on the road: reindeer don't move aside, and a herd will happily stand in the middle of it.

Northern lights over the lavvu

An evening visit to a Sámi camp combines brilliantly with the aurora. A lit lavvu under a green sky is one of the most beautiful subjects I know in the Arctic. How to take such a photo, I describe in how to photograph the northern lights, and if you'd like to go aurora hunting with me, see northern lights hunting in Tromsø.

Respect for Sámi culture

Sámi culture isn't a costume for tourists. Ask, listen and photograph people only with their permission. The traditional gákti dress carries information about family and origin, and wearing it out of context is offensive to many Sámi. If the subject interests you, visit the Perspektivet museum or the university museum in Tromsø, which has an excellent exhibition on Sápmi.

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