Winter activities in Arctic Norway: ski touring, snowshoes and dog sledding

Winter above the Arctic Circle is long, but certainly not boring. From December to April there's snow everywhere around Tromsø, and locals make the most of it: on touring skis, cross-country skis, snowshoes and dog sleds. Ski touring is my greatest passion, so I've put together an overview of the winter activities you can try in Arctic Norway, with tips on how to prepare for them.

Ski touring in the Lyngen Alps

For ski tourers, Lyngen is something of a Mecca. Mountains over 1,500 metres high start right at the sea, so you begin the climb by the fjord and finish the descent above the waves. The season is best from March to May, when the days are long and the snow more stable. In April and May you can even ski under the midnight sun.

Popular objectives are Kavringtinden, Rørnestinden and Sorbmegaisa in Lyngen, and Blåmann, Store Blåmann and Hamperokken around Tromsø. To start with, I recommend shorter tours on Kvaløya, where the climbs are smaller.

Snowshoes: winter for everyone

Snowshoes are the simplest way to get into the snowy wilderness without skiing experience. Warm boots and a bit of fitness are all you need. Around Tromsø, snowshoe hikes lead through the forests near Tromsdalen, on Kvaløya or in the Tamokdalen valley. In the polar night the experience is even stronger: blue light, silence, and with a little luck the aurora overhead.

Dog sledding

For many people a dog sled ride is the highlight of a winter holiday in Norway. Dozens of huskies bark with excitement as soon as they see the sled, and then suddenly silence: you hear only the patter of paws and the creak of snow. Most farms are in the valleys around Tromsø, where the snow is more reliable. More about what such a day is like in my article on dog sledding near Tromsø.

Snowmobiles

If you want speed and distance, head out by snowmobile. In Norway, riding a snowmobile off marked trails is restricted by law, so people ride in organised groups on permitted trails, most often in Lyngen and in the valleys near the Finnish border.

Reindeer and Sámi culture

A calmer experience is a visit to Sámi herders. You can feed reindeer by hand, ride a reindeer-drawn sled and listen to the stories of the north's indigenous people by the fire in a traditional lavvu tent. More in reindeer feeding and Sámi culture.

The aurora: the crown of every winter day

However you spend the day, it's worth watching the sky in the evening. The aurora can be seen in Tromsø from September to early April, and it's best to go after it away from the town lights. How to photograph it is in my guide how to photograph the northern lights.

How to dress for the Arctic winter

• Layers: merino or synthetic thermal underwear, fleece or wool, a down jacket and a waterproof outer layer.
• Feet: well-insulated winter boots a size larger, so warm socks fit.
• Hands: thin gloves under mittens: you work the camera in the thin ones.
• Head: a hat, a buff and ski goggles for the wind.
• Don't overheat: sweat in your layers will freeze you outside later.

Thanks to the Gulf Stream, temperatures around Tromsø mostly stay between −5 and −15 °C, but inland they drop below −25 °C. Wind can lower the felt temperature by another ten degrees.

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